28/09/2023
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Primitivo is a dark-skinned grape known for producing inky, tannic wines, particularly Primitivo di Manduria and its naturally sweet Dolce Naturale variant. Although there have been contentious and long-running debates about the variety's geographical origins, there is little question that Primitivo's modern-day home is in southern Italy, particularly Puglia.
A classic Primitivo wine is high in both alcohol and tannins, intensely flavored and deeply colored. In Manduria, the fortified liquoroso variants often reach an ABV of 18 percent, which is dulled to 14 percent in the table wines. A certain bitterness is often found in Primitivo which, combined with its mouth-puckering tannins, means that it often needs a few years in either bottle or barrel.
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Primitivo probably arrived to Puglia from the coastal vineyards of Croatia (just across the Adriatic Sea). It is still grown today, under various tongue-twisting names including Tribidrag and Crljenak Kasteljanski.
In the early 19th Century, the variety was introduced to the United States, under the name Zinfandel. It proved extremely successful there, earning a reputation as the American 'national grape'. It caused significant consternation on both sides of the Atlantic when DNA analysis proved that Zinfandel and Primitivo were the same variety. For the full story, and listings of Zinfandel wines, see Zinfandel.
Primitivo has endured something of a rollercoaster ride in the past few decades. In the 1990s, the variety was at its lowest ebb for a long time. The EU's vine pull schemes had seen thousands of acres of Primitivo vines ripped out of the ground.
But across the Atlantic Zinfandel was booming, which doubtless contributed to Primitivo's new lease of life. The new-look Primitivo that soon began to emerge was no longer just a blending variety, it was now the historic grape behind southern Italy's flagship wines.
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Primitivo suffered worse in the vine pull scheme than many other varieties as it is relatively difficult to manage in the vineyard. The variety is susceptible to drought, frosts, and floral abortion and the relatively compact bunches create vulnerability to mildew diseases and vine pests.
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The name Primitivo translates roughly as "early one" (there is an obvious link here with Tempranillo, which means the same thing in Spanish), and refers to the variety's early-ripening nature. One might be forgiven for thinking that the grape was in some way "primitive", perhaps less refined than other grape varieties. The robust character of much Primitivo wine does little to correct this mistake โ even in Puglia it is known as Mirr Test ('hard wine').
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Primitivo, even when modestly priced, tends to suits hearty dishes; a classic partner would be spit-roasted Puglian lamb. A lentil or bean stew, cooked in Primitivo and served with bacon, is another tasty dish with a Southern Italian flavor.
