03/25/2026
Tragically, the wine world suffered a significant loss in 2020 with the passing of Renato V***a at the age of 51. Renato was more than just a winemaker; he was a soulful guardian of his family’s heritage and a beloved figure in the Piedmontese community. His death left a profound void, but his meticulous standards and deep respect for the Nebbiolo grape had already established a clear path forward for the estate he spent his life perfecting.
Following Renato’s passing, the stewardship of Cantina del Pino transitioned to his wife, Francine, and his father, Adriano V***a. Together, they have ensured that the winery remains a family-run labor of love. Francine, who worked closely alongside Renato for years, has stepped into the leadership role with a firm resolve to maintain the house style—one defined by elegance, structure, and a refusal to follow fleeting trends.
Impressions: This is a chiseled and high-toned expression of Nebbiolo, reflecting the cooler microclimate and limestone-rich soils of this iconic north-facing cru. The aromatics are strikingly complex, leading with vibrant notes of sour cherry and wild raspberries accented by chalky minerals, marjoram, and dried autumn leaves. On the palate, the wine is taut and sinewy, showcasing a refined yet firm tannic structure that is balanced by a piercing, energetic acidity and a long, savory finish of licorice and white pepper. This mid-weight vintage possesses a weightless concentration and a transparent character that will reward cellaring as its powerful elements harmonize over time.
Perhaps it’s the gravitas that numbers can carry, but this 2021 was an anticipated release for us. We are huge fans of Cantina del Pino, and this highly praised vintage marked a symbolic shift without Renato’s presence.
Our verdict? It’s clear that the estate continues to operate with the same quiet intensity that Renato championed, more importantly, this served as a reminder of how artists continue to live through their art, long after their physical presence has left us.
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