05/28/2026
Austria Wine Tour Recap: Day 5 / Wachau, Thermenregion & Back to Vienna
Day five was our final day together.
We checked out of LOISIUM and headed into the Wachau for Tegernseerhof in Unterloiben, just below Durnstein. The winery’s history goes back more than 1,000 years, and there is still a cannonball embedded in the outer wall from the Napoleonic fighting in the Wachau.
Our tasting was hosted by Lisa, who had worked harvests with the team. Everything is hand-harvested because the terraces do not allow for machines. After hearing about carrying grapes up and down those hillsides, the Wachau terraces looked a little different.
My personal favorite was the Dürnstein T26 Grüner Veltliner Federspiel. The single-parcel wines may be the more serious bottlings, but T26 is the one I kept coming back to: bright, mineral, energetic, approachable, and built for hours of enjoyment under almost any circumstances.
After lunch at Wachauer Stube and a guided walk through Dürnstein, we headed to Oberwaltersdorf for our final wine dinner at Weingut Hartl.
Heinrich and Marie-Sophie Hartl brought the whole trip home: Pinot Noir, St. Laurent, Rotgipfler, Zierfandler, cellar time, garden greens, family hospitality, and one last long table.
Heinrich was a gracious host, walking us through the cellar and sharing how he thinks about the wines, especially Pinot Noir. Marie-Sophie was equally central to the experience. Klaus introduced her as “a force,” and that is exactly how she came across: winemaker, host, marketer, mother, and someone who understands Austrian wine on a global level.
Together, Heinrich and Marie-Sophie felt like the point of the whole visit: serious wine, real hospitality, family life, and a clear vision for what the Thermenregion can be.
The Pinot Noir focus really came into view with Ried Graf Weingartl 1ÖTW: red berries, forest floor, cedar, spice, and a mineral-salty finish. It made Heinrich’s ambition to produce some of Austria’s best Pinot Noir feel very real.
That wraps the first Wine Attic Austrian wine tour - ending, fittingly, with one last rooftop night at MOOONS in Vienna. Servus!