
24/04/2025
Interesting read 👍
🍷 Alice Feiring: the rebel voice of natural wine speaks out.
(Reading time: 3 minutes)
Outspoken, visionary, and never afraid to challenge the system, Alice Feiring is one of the most influential voices in the world of natural wine.
A New Yorker with a sharp mind and fearless pen, she was among the first to write about low-intervention wines in major publications like the New York Times, Wall Street Journal, and Time - even when it meant losing sponsors.
Six years after her viral NYT piece titled “Is Natural Wine Dead?”, she’s back with no filters, reflecting on how the movement has evolved - for better and for worse.
🗣 “Has natural wine been corrupted by opportunists?”
"Yes, it’s gotten worse. Too many bad wines are flooding the market, and prices have skyrocketed. Consumption is falling.”
💥 On big brands jumping on the ‘natural’ bandwagon:
“Some producers market their wines as natural, while using filtration and other conventional practices. That’s the real problem.”
⚔ On internal conflicts over sulfites and standards:
“There are disputes, but the real battle is over perception. Many now avoid the term ‘natural wine’ because it’s associated with flaws.”
💸 Why is Gen Z turning away from wine?
“It’s simply too expensive. A good bottle of natural wine costs at least $25. It’s no longer for the people. Plus, alcohol, cocktails, and cannabis are cheaper and seen as trendier.”
🌱 Who is leading the fight against climate change?
“Small natural growers are doing more than the big players. While corporates talk about drones and ripening, real change comes from pruning methods, higher altitudes, hybrids and soil work.”
🚺 Are women being included in wine?
“There are many women in PR and hospitality, but fewer as winemakers or on stage. There’s still sexism, pay gaps, and abuse.”
🥂 Is natural wine still alive?
“Absolutely. It’s not an organization - it’s a philosophy. No one is in charge. And that’s the beauty of it.”
A must-read for anyone who believes wine is more than just a drink - it’s a cultural, ethical, and agricultural statement.
*Interview by Giuseppe Carrus for Gambero Rosso
📷 Photo by Audrey-Eve Beauchamp