
25/04/2025
Saint-Aubin Stature: Hubert Lamy
Winter 2022's visit to Domaine Hubert Lamy cemented what I already knew: Olivier Lamy is at the top of his game, and no one surpasses the precision found in his wines. While the whites are the focus here, the reds were eye-opening––delivering lift and a fine mineral thread that flies in the face of any pre-conceived notions of Chassagne-Montrachet and Saint-Aubin Pinot Noir. The especially red-fruited style of the cool 2021 season produced fruity wines that float on the palate.
The whites, however, are the main attraction. And, 2021 in barrel also proved what I had surmised: this unique vintage for both reds and whites is a dream brew––less weight and density, and more acid-driven personalities, with a frame that takes my mind back to drinking the 2007s and 2008s upon release.
Whereas the reductive and matchstick traits found with Roulot and Leflaive have headlined that style and pulled me in quite a bit, I don't see Lamy in this same camp. And because of that Olivier Lamy brings allure from his own unique style: more textural breadth, still supported brilliantly with mouth-watering salinity and a linear, driving finish.