Kogod Wine Merchant

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Kogod Wine Merchant Encinitas-based retail wine shop focusing on small-production, traditionally crafted wines from the classic vine-growing regions of the world.

Saint-Aubin Stature: Hubert LamyWinter 2022's visit to Domaine Hubert Lamy cemented what I already knew: Olivier Lamy is...
25/04/2025

Saint-Aubin Stature: Hubert Lamy

Winter 2022's visit to Domaine Hubert Lamy cemented what I already knew: Olivier Lamy is at the top of his game, and no one surpasses the precision found in his wines. While the whites are the focus here, the reds were eye-opening––delivering lift and a fine mineral thread that flies in the face of any pre-conceived notions of Chassagne-Montrachet and Saint-Aubin Pinot Noir. The especially red-fruited style of the cool 2021 season produced fruity wines that float on the palate.

The whites, however, are the main attraction. And, 2021 in barrel also proved what I had surmised: this unique vintage for both reds and whites is a dream brew––less weight and density, and more acid-driven personalities, with a frame that takes my mind back to drinking the 2007s and 2008s upon release.

Whereas the reductive and matchstick traits found with Roulot and Leflaive have headlined that style and pulled me in quite a bit, I don't see Lamy in this same camp. And because of that Olivier Lamy brings allure from his own unique style: more textural breadth, still supported brilliantly with mouth-watering salinity and a linear, driving finish.

New Releases from California Power Duo!  San Luis Obispo hasn’t garnered as much attention as Santa Barbara County or Sa...
24/04/2025

New Releases from California Power Duo!

San Luis Obispo hasn’t garnered as much attention as Santa Barbara County or Santa Maria Valley, perhaps, but Mikey and Gina Giugni are changing that in seemingly no time at all. The young couple shares a winery space and produce their own label with differing ethos. All wines share a common thread: they are seamlessly constructed with site-specificity that's surpassed by none in California. The diversity of grape varieties and styles is unbelievably refreshing, and the wines empty in a flash.

Canary Islands Delight: Tamerán Baboso BlancoWhen a world-famous soccer player launches a winery in Spain, you might exp...
22/04/2025

Canary Islands Delight: Tamerán Baboso Blanco

When a world-famous soccer player launches a winery in Spain, you might expect bold, opulent reds from prestigious regions like Ribera del Duero or Priorat—wines with hefty price tags and celebrity allure. But David Silva took a different path. He returned to his roots in the Canary Islands and founded Tamerán with Jonatan Garcia of Suertes del Marqués. Tamerán is dedicated to the region’s nearly forgotten indigenous white grape varieties.

The entire lineup is fabulous, but the 2022 Baboso Blanco was the star from Gran Canaria, located off the coast of Morocco. It is a deep gold in the glass, with the rich stone fruit profile you'd anticipate, but finishes dry and saline, with a lingering mineral tension that is both precise and mouthwatering. There’s a polish to the texture—glossy and seamless, revealing just how serious the viticulture and winemaking are behind the scenes. Baboso Blanco may never be a household name, but this bottle makes the case that it should be. It's the kind of wine I want to drink with nearly every seafood dish imaginable. I recently had it with Spanish sardines on toasted sourdough, and it was fireworks from the first sip. If you're craving something fresh, coastal, and entirely off the beaten path, Taméran’s Baboso Blanco is what you want to be drinking.

Aged Les Pallières: Legendary GigondasLes Pallières has long been my benchmark for Gigondas, and today I'm thrilled to o...
19/04/2025

Aged Les Pallières: Legendary Gigondas

Les Pallières has long been my benchmark for Gigondas, and today I'm thrilled to offer a private cellar selection of perfectly aged bottles from top vintages—priced exceptionally well. I've been lucky to enjoy cuvées from the 1990s over the years, and they never fail to impress with their refinement, vibrant fruit, and that unmistakable garrigue signature of the southern Rhône.

Carved into the slopes of the Dentelles de Montmirail, Les Pallières has been crafting Grenache-dominant blends since the 15th century. These wines show dark strawberry and white pepper in youth, evolving into roasted meat and earthy tones with time. While a quick decant to remove sediment is wise, these older vintages are best enjoyed without prolonged air—so you can capture the more primary fruit in your glass right away.

Earlier this year, we highlighted the highest elevation DOCG vineyard in Montalcino, in Le Ragnaie's Passo del Lume. Tod...
18/04/2025

Earlier this year, we highlighted the highest elevation DOCG vineyard in Montalcino, in Le Ragnaie's Passo del Lume. Today, we turn to a cuvée rarely produced, and only in the best vintages: the one-hectare vineyard of "Petroso", located just below the village. Here, we trade in the high-toned fruit of Passo del Lume for darker shades of black cherry and a powerful persona, still with Le Ragnaie's signature lift and grace.

Le Ragnaie sits in elite company with Salvioni, Soldera, and Stella di Campalto for its classic terroir-driven style, characterized by an unmistakable Burgundian sensibility with transparency of site.

Riccardo Campinoti founded Le Ragnaie in 2002, yet it has joined the upper echelon of Montalcino’s greats in just two decades. The approach here is one we champion: organic farming, native yeast fermentations, long macerations (up to 90 days), and aging in large neutral Slavonian botti for three years.

The 2019 vintage is indeed exceptional in Montalcino. The summer was warm and dry, but ideally timed rainfalls and massive diurnal temperature shifts paved the way for a Brunello vintage for the ages. It’s a year to go deep on—one that delivers both power and precision. Link in bio to purchase.

Sta. Rita Sensation: 2019 Sandhi Blanc de NoirsSandhi’s latest sparkling release marks an exciting shift. While past cuv...
16/04/2025

Sta. Rita Sensation: 2019 Sandhi Blanc de Noirs

Sandhi’s latest sparkling release marks an exciting shift. While past cuvées spotlighted 100% Chardonnay, the 2019 vintage brings us into Pinot Noir territory with a Blanc de Noirs sourced entirely from La Rinconada Vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills—specifically the Mount Eden clone, known for its finesse and grace. The 2015 and 2016 vintages had me boldly calling this the most delicious sparkling wine in America, and the 2019 only reinforces that claim.

This 100% Pinot Noir sparkler is like drinking 20-year-old Champagne in its prime, with a sprinkle of hazelnut. It's laser-focused, opening with green apple, subtle salted caramel, and a whisper of red berries that nod to its Pinot Noir origins. The long and incisive finish puts the exclamation point on the fact that this is the apex of what extended-aged California sparkling wine can do.

At first glance, Turley may seem like an outlier in our Old World-focused collection. The reason I go deep on these priz...
14/04/2025

At first glance, Turley may seem like an outlier in our Old World-focused collection. The reason I go deep on these prized wines from America's oldest vineyards extends far beyond their historical significance. While Turley wines have a hedonistic side, they are balanced, precisely detailed, and always supported by fresh acidity.

Turley defines American viticulture today. Working with over 50 vineyards, they apply organic principles and rely only on native yeasts for fermentation. Head winemaker, Tegan Passalacqua of Sandlands, is rightfully respected for his work in the cellar as much as for his encyclopedic knowledge of California's diversity of old vineyards.

While Zinfandel and Petite Syrah inherently push toward higher ripeness, their thoughtful approach with vines from Paso Robles to Napa Valley is to preserve acidity and manage tannins. Each cuvée is crafted free of reliance on excessive new oak, additives, or manipulation in the cellar. These are ultimate wines of terroir, epitomizing the best of California's viticulture heritage.

Big Bottle Energy: The Best in Mags & JerosLarge format bottles offer more than just the allure of extra wine. They prov...
28/03/2025

Big Bottle Energy: The Best in Mags & Jeros

Large format bottles offer more than just the allure of extra wine. They provide enhanced freshness, as the slower aging process preserves their vibrant character, resulting in a more lively and youthful wine. And when your group exceeds five, everyone will appreciate having more than just a single glass to enjoy.

These are the large formats we know will fit any occasion, from the incredible value of Muscadet with oysters, to bone-in ribeyes with aged Bordeaux––the 1988 Chateau Lafite Rothschild pictured above inspired today's offer. We have several vintages of Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet and Chardonnay, as well as Robert Mondavi's Estate Cabernet.

Delectable Dijon:  Domaine de la Cras' MonopoleIn the hills above Dijon, you can find one of Burgundy's greatest incepti...
21/03/2025

Delectable Dijon: Domaine de la Cras' Monopole

In the hills above Dijon, you can find one of Burgundy's greatest inception stories. It is a fresh departure from a domaine's normal evolution, but the wines in bottle are the most thrilling element from Marc Soyard. In a short time, Domaine de la Cras has gone from obscure to having a cult following.

A little over a decade ago, the city of Dijon purchased a vineyard just outside its limits, and they essentially held a casting call to find a winemaker for the property. The criteria were: The winemaker must be young, have no family vineyard holdings, farm organically, and open the domaine for educational tours. Rent for the land would be paid to the city in 2,000 bottles.

Marc Soyard, originally from nearby Jura, was chosen. Soyard does not come from a family of vignerons but previously worked for Vosne-Romanée's esteemed Domaine Bizot, known for its rigorous vineyard work, minuscule sulfur regimen, and whole-cluster fermentation.

Soyard's Pinot Noirs pulled me in for their super crunchy and unadulterated bright, red berry fruit. The aromas are intoxicating even before tasting, and whole-cluster fermentation gives these wines a lifted spice and floral character that just floored me. His Chardonnay's offer a totally unique take on white Burgundy, coming from this long-overlooked terroir––seamless and classic.

The Gold Standard: Huet Vouvray Chenin BlancIf there were one gold standard for Chenin Blanc, it would be Vouvray's Doma...
20/03/2025

The Gold Standard: Huet Vouvray Chenin Blanc

If there were one gold standard for Chenin Blanc, it would be Vouvray's Domaine Huet. Victor Huët relocated here from Paris and purchased the first of their three famous vineyards, Le Haut-Lieu, in 1928. Victor's son Gaston took over in 1937, and after spending five years in a German POW camp, he returned home and purchased the next duo of vineyards, Le Mont and Clos du Bourg.

Huet's trio is revered for each wine's expressive site-specificity and transformative prowess. The young Vouvray Sec (dry) and Demi-Sec (off-dry) wines offer white peach, pineapple, and chalky minerality notes upon release. With age, notes of white flowers and honeycomb emerge and fall into place seamlessly in a way that's simply vintage Huet.

Le Haut Lieu's deep limestone and clay make this the richest and most approachable in the lineup. Le Mont is the most mineral-driven and racy of the trio, with less clay soil. Clos du Bourg has the most shallow and rockiest soils, and its signature is the "middle ground" wine, combining the mineral component of Le Mont with the more sensual, flashy texture of Le Haut-Lieu.

Pétillant is the domaine's sparkling wine, sourced from all three vineyards. Among sparkling wines made outside of Champagne, this is the Loire's greatest and one of the world's best, especially considering the quality-price-ratio.

Zero Fluff, All Focus: Jouan Morey 1er Cru Clos SorbéI'm often asked which Burgundy domaines should be on the radar for ...
19/03/2025

Zero Fluff, All Focus: Jouan Morey 1er Cru Clos Sorbé

I'm often asked which Burgundy domaines should be on the radar for their classic character and no frills personality. The name atop that list, embodying both, is Philippe & Henri Jouan of Morey-Saint-Denis. Their greatest wine from their home village is the Premier Cru Clos Sorbé. The late, great Jacky Truchot once made this vineyard legendary, with bottles now fetching upwards of $2,000. When he retired (sort of) in 2005, he sold all his vineyards—except for Clos Sorbé, as he continued producing a tiny amount from a backyard site he cherished.

Morey is often defined by what it isn't—neither Gevrey-Chambertin to the north nor Chambolle-Musigny to the south. Its wines trade Chambolle’s red cherry for darker berries, layered with forest floor and brown and rust-tinged earthy notes. And, unlike Gevrey’s muscular structure, Morey retains a grace and lift that always brings me back to a more Chambolle ethos of refinement.

Clos Sorbé centers around the same dark cherry fruit profile, but adding notes of orange rind, cocoa, and smoked game. All wrapped up with great acidity, fine-grained tannin, and unmistakable Premier Cru length and drive. While very structured in its extreme youth, with a few years in bottle, like today's 2020, these expressions are in full blossom.

Dry Riesling: The RundownToday, we're shining a light on a wine that needs very little introduction here, but the spotli...
19/03/2025

Dry Riesling: The Rundown

Today, we're shining a light on a wine that needs very little introduction here, but the spotlight must persist! Dry Riesling is a favorite for its featherweight palate presence, and dynamic transformative capabilities. Did I mention they are also unbelievably delicious whether in peak summer or to pair along hearty dishes in the depths of winter? Click the link in bio to shop our favorites

2021 First Look: Ferrando Canaveses Nebbiolo "Praj"For a decade here, I've sung the praises of Ferrando's Carema, and to...
17/03/2025

2021 First Look: Ferrando Canaveses Nebbiolo "Praj"

For a decade here, I've sung the praises of Ferrando's Carema, and today, we turn to its more approachable, brand-spanking-new sibling, the Canavese Nebbiolo "Praj."

There’s no better value for Italian alpine Nebbiolo. This single vineyard located just outside Carema delivers the same finesse and ethereal quality that makes Ferrando’s White and Black labels so revered but with softer tannins and a more immediate, fruit-forward charm.

The debut release hails from the outstanding 2021 Piedmont vintage. While the highly anticipated Barolos, Barbarescos, and Alto Piemonte wines will trickle in over the next two years, this is the $35 bottle you need to experience now to understand what all the excitement is about. The vintage is defined by its elegance and fruit intensity, while still offering spectacular aging potential.

New Dawn:  Clos des Plantes Chenin BlancLoire Chenin Blanc produced in the most natural of methods is something I'm alwa...
14/03/2025

New Dawn: Clos des Plantes Chenin Blanc

Loire Chenin Blanc produced in the most natural of methods is something I'm always excited to taste. The bar for excellence is very high, given only the most skilled viticulture can turn out these complex and high-wire achievements.

Lejeune worked alongside legendary Chenin Blanc whisperer Mark Angeli at Ferme de la Sansonniere in Anjou. Here, Mark taught the skills necessary to produce pristine Chenin Blanc with minimal intervention.

Lejeune's two cuvées offer a value that cannot be overstated. Chenin Blanc from this domaine explodes on the palate with a soft texture and an open-knit style of fruit met with a mineral grip. The tingling finish saturates the palate with salinity and holds on for dear life. These are two Chenins with no shortage of personality––Rich and saline, they cover all the bases.

You'll find ripe orchard fruits and honeysuckle cut with lemon citrus notes that switch this broad attack of ripeness into a mineral delivery system masterpiece. The natural element is abundantly clear with its cardamom spices fully enveloped under a strict spine of chalk and schist-derived minerality.

With this importer's portfolio covering names like Roumier, Roulot, and D'Angerville, it's exciting to see the juxtaposition of more natural-leaning producers coming to the forefront offering the same fastidious methods of work with a more hands-off approach in the cellar. If there's one newer name to familiarize yourself with it would certainly be Olivier Lejeune's Clos des Plantes.

Curtain Up: 2021 Montevertine Le Pergole Torte2021 has proven to be one of the most exciting young vintages in Tuscany t...
12/03/2025

Curtain Up: 2021 Montevertine Le Pergole Torte

2021 has proven to be one of the most exciting young vintages in Tuscany this century. And the zone that turned out the most impressive wines of all is undoubtedly here in Chianti Classico. It’s a vintage of power and intensity, yet it beautifully balances bright acidity, giving wines of remarkable precision and purity.

Sergio Manetti originally planted just two hectares at this vacation property in 1967. With the unexpected glowing reception of his first vintage (1971), he began to focus exclusively on winemaking. Manetti believed in the greatness of 100% Sangiovese from this hillside, and in 1981, due to the laws of Chianti Classico requiring the addition of Trebbiano in the blend, he chose to leave the consortium.

This was a radical move at the time, and it is hard to believe now, as so many of the great wines of Chianti Classico are produced with 100% Sangiovese. (Even though the law was changed in 1995 to allow 100% Sangiovese Chianti Classico, many producers opt to maintain their "lower" IGT status). The estate gained a loyal following at home and abroad, with Sergio's son Martino taking an active role with his father in 1989. In 2000, Martino took complete control upon his father's passing.

The 18-hectare estate rests high at 425 meters in Radda, one of the coolest zones in Chianti Classico. The soil is heavily dominated by limestone, and coupled with the site's climate, Montevertine has a sense of transparency and grace that stands out immediately. Le Pergole Torte is sourced from the estate's oldest vines and highest-elevation plantings. Aging in French barrique with a maximum of 15% new wood. The deft use of barrique here is so impressive, adding concentration and texture while still harnessing the pure, lithe qualities inherent in the site. Link in bio to purchase.

Agrapart "Terroirs": Champagne Blanc de Blancs BrillianceWhen the best non-vintage Blanc de Blancs conversation arises, ...
11/03/2025

Agrapart "Terroirs": Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brilliance

When the best non-vintage Blanc de Blancs conversation arises, which is often, my answer for the sub-$100 category always starts with Agrapart "Terroirs" and Pierre Péters Cuvée Réserve. It's impossible to exclude other great names, but these two personify the best attributes of the most chalky realm of Champagne, the Grand Cru villages of the Côte des Blancs.

Pascal Agrapart farms 10 hectares covering 60 different parcels, all located in only Grand Cru villages. Wines here commonly undergo full malolactic fermentation, and aging takes place in both older oak barrels and stainless steel. The champagnes are crystalline and precise, yet infused with Grand Cru radiance, delivering deeply saturated fruit and awesome depth.

Terroirs comprises Chardonnay sourced from Grand Cru villages, Avize, Oger, Cramant, and Oiry. A blend of two consecutive vintages, with the older vintage aged exclusively in neutral oak barrels. Link in bio to purchase.

Dagueneau's Sauvignon Blanc cuvées from Loire's Pouilly-Fumé might transcend their appellation more than any domaine in ...
10/03/2025

Dagueneau's Sauvignon Blanc cuvées from Loire's Pouilly-Fumé might transcend their appellation more than any domaine in France. Labeling them as merely Sauvignon Blanc or Pouilly-Fumé is like calling Beethoven a classical composer, Stanley Kubrick a film director, or Leonardo da Vinci a painter. It's not just about being the best in their fields––they redefined the very boundaries of what their crafts could achieve.

Dagueneau's white wines are often poured at dinners alongside Burgundy's greats, and there's no missed beat. Yes, they differ in leaning towards tropical citrus, but the magic is in pushing primary fruit flavors behind a wall of terroir and savory notes that take precedence. Add their ability to transform and improve with bottle age, and it's easy to see why no other Pouily Fumé plays in this same field.

Silex is the wine I think of first when the name Daugueneau arises. The name refers to the rock that's abundantly found in this vineyard, also commonly known as flint. Silex is about structure over fruit, and the firm, straight line of minerality and acidity forms the backbone and is known for its supreme age-ability.

California Game-Changer: InconnuThere are U.S. trailblazers and game-changers, but you rarely find both under one roof. ...
07/03/2025

California Game-Changer: Inconnu

There are U.S. trailblazers and game-changers, but you rarely find both under one roof. Laura Brennan Bissell's appropriately named label Inconnu, meaning "unknown," is the recent discovery that had me feeling, well, seen.

I generally drink Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux, Santa Cruz Mountains, Napa, and Sonoma. But I only pull those corks when the menu calls for steak or lamb. Simply put, you won't find me watching a David Lynch flick with a glass of Cab—I don't have the interest to sip for two hours without food. And that is why Inconnu is as invigorating a game-changer as I've tasted from California in a long time.

Bissell's wines have modest alcohol levels (well below what that even means in the regions above), and they have such beautiful balance and finesse that they disappear fast but offer long-lasting joy. They marry the refreshing qualities of a great Cru Beaujolais with the flavor profiles of ripe-not-overripe Cabernet Sauvignon, where black cherry and currant can be found, with notes of eucalyptus and mint that make things a lot more exciting.

Another thing that makes clear these wines were destined to be KWM mainstays is their origin, coming from the same importer as Clos Rougeard, Roagna, and Lafon. At the portfolio tasting, I was taken by how each red, regardless of their modest pricing, stood toe-to-toe with one another. I went back multiple times and was still hard-pressed to pick a favorite––they all had the kind of grace and intensity that separates the good from the great.

Do not miss these California reds that check all the boxes for Old World wine lovers and "New California" enthusiasts.

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